GOIN UPTA CAMP

"A lake is the landscape's most beautiful and expressive feature.  It is Earth's eye; looking into which the beholder measures the depth of his own nature."  Henry David Thoreau

Camp in Mainespeak is a rather basic, usually seasonal cottage on a lake.  Goin upta camp is a summer tradition for many families from Maine and away.   Over and over I hear families are called year after year by the simple pleasures including swimming, boating and fishing.  Rainy days and evenings are filled with board games and puzzles.

Louisa Nevitt-Perdoni, a New Jerseyan, remembers going to camp at Mirror Lake, Oxford, with her 7 siblings starting in the late ‘50’s.   After making the trek to camp since the 1920’s, her family acquired a property and in 1952 built a Sears kit camp with 2 bedrooms, living area and kitchen + a front porch.

Camp life included bathing in the lake with ivory soap.  Drinking water was pumped from an unknown source.  There was no worry, and everyone drank it anyway.  An outhouse was the norm. 

According to Louisa, family and friends were invited annually and “no one was every turned away.”  “We slept wherever we could fit,” she recalls.  Day trips to the White Mountains and other attractions were a special treat.  To her family camp was a “place to reconnect, life simplified, relaxing and easy.”  Although interest in camp waned when they became teenagers, the young adults with their own families have revived the camp experience.  Louisa’s family now maintains “Aunt’s Camp” and encourages the tradition and stability her family enjoyed.  TV offers 2 channels, and there is no internet connection.  Scrabble is the family game of choice.

For our son-in-law, Mainer Rick Strout, goin upta camp meant traveling from Auburn to Grandpa’s place at Sabbathday Lake.  He and his six sisters swam and fished, picked berries and cooked hotdogs.  They loved listening to stories around the campfire.  Rick never tired of hearing his great grandfather’s hunting tales of McGourty’s Swamp in Chesterville—about the hunt itself and sometimes about dodging the game warden.  

There was no indoor plumbing at Grandpa’s, but there was a hand pump outside to pump water.  Although Grandpa had a big fireplace, there was no central heating system.

Rick says, “I love the smell of a camp.”  For him hearing the wooden screen door bang brings back memories.

Rick, who is a carpenter, converted a seasonal camp on the upper portion of Little Sebago to a year-round home for his family.

Rena, who lives in a newly built home on 20 acres in Skowhegan, maintains a camp a few miles away.  Her family’s camp is a geo dome, 28 feet in diameter.  It is all open with a loft and offers one bedroom and a bathroom.  Power for the camp is an example of Maine ingenuity.  It is connected to a 12 volt marine battery located in a truck outside with underground wires.

Rena’s family enjoys swimming, tv with local channels, cards, reminiscing and making photo collages to take home.  Rena says “The family connection is the key to camp life.”

My husband and I are new to the camp experience.  Being from “away” with children and grandchildren living in Maine, a lakefront vacation home seemed a good idea.  That was the beginning.

On a leisurely boat ride on Little Sebago, we happened on a handmade “for sale” sign in front of a typical camp.  Frankly, it was not my vision of a vacation home, but my son-in-law convinced me it was right to pursue.  Being a native, he made the first call to the owner, also a Mainer, to introduce me.

After a year of negotiation we had a contract.  The mortgage company underwriters doubted the wisdom of our purchase – the failing septic, no actual bathroom, no hot water, and no source of central heat.  We patiently explained there were 100’ of shoreline with a sandy bottom and gradual drop, and yes we knew what we were doing.  So in February 2006 we became camp owners, and we’re hooked.  We enjoy seeing and hearing the loons that frequent our cove.  My husband, John, reminds us on arrival to “relax, it’s camp.”

Today our camp includes a new well and septic, bathroom, hot water and Rinnai heater. We’ve added a round, stone fire pit, which is great for evening campfires or the lobster pot.  

We rent our camp during the season, which to my surprise, is limited to July and August, and we have succumbed to the demand for cable TV and internet.  Games and puzzles as well as an assortment of books are available for everyone who wants to immerse in the camp experience. We do our best to retain the camp feeling/nostalgia of original knotty pine paneling, shaving mirror over the kitchen sink, linoleum on the bedroom floors – all included when the original owner built this camp in the 50’s.

 

Lobster bake is a special treat!!  And don't forget the corn . . .

A favorite day trip is a visit to the Maine Wildlife Park in Gray.  There is always something new to see.  Last season we attended a wonderful program on eagles, and the star of the show was a young eagle that had been rescued after a storm on Little Sebago blew down the nest.

I asked one of our repeat tenants, Anne and Jack Marsh, what makes them return.  Although the Marshes only live in Portland, going to camp is vacation for them, a true getaway with few distractions.  Anne chooses not to bring her computer.   She says “Being at the camp draws our family together.”  The Marshes have twin 12-year old sons, who love the water and campfires.  On rainy days they play monopoly together for hours.

Among the boys’ favorite activities is fishing from the dock.  Anne, who was raised a city girl, learned to bait a hook and remove the hook.   Anne says, “the boys have become catch and release fisherman.”

We use Krainin Real Estate, established in the area since 1976 to handle our rentals.  I asked owner Maggie Krainin whether she heard stories from returning tenants.  She told me Krainin handles approximately 1200 rentals per year, and 56% are repeaters.  She said “Some folks always want the same property, and they develop a feeling of almost ownership.  They even bring additions to the camps like decorative items, books and games.” 

Her rental agents have some funny stories to tell like the renter who complained about a squirrel in the cottage who was eating their Oreo cookies.  It seems the squirrel was not inclined to leave as long as the cookies lasted. 

Another agent remembers folks who had asked their agent over and over whether there would be loons at the lake.  When they got there, they complained the loon calls were so loud, they kept the family awake.

Camp is not for everyone.  A Krainin agent remembers a lady arriving for check in wearing tight capris and 4” heels.  When a chipmunk ran out of the woods and under her car, the lady screamed “An animal!  An animal” and immediately put her child back into the car to avoid an animal encounter.

For those who love the simplicity of camp living, the campfires, relaxing on the shore or playing games on rainy days, camp is a treasured summer tradition.    

As for us, we’re sad to close the camp in the fall, and we can hardly wait for the ice to go out on the lake in the spring so we can prepare for opening.

What the Cowboys Knew . . .

Dramatic contrasts. From the Rio Grande to the Chihuahan Desert to the Chiso Mountains with all the climatic drama embracing the region, Big Bend National Park boasting 800,000 acres, offers something for everyone. According to Indian legend the Big Bend is where the Great Spirit dumped all the rocks he had left over after he created the earth. Spanish explorers who searched unsuccessfully for gold in the mountains layered in dark lava and light ash called it "the unknown land." It is one of the largest, most remote, least visited National parks in the lower 48. Its lowest elevation is 1,850’ soaring to 7,825’ at Emory Peak. The altitude change alone creates adjustments to your day. Do check out the Gary’s book, “Enjoying Big Bend National Park,” for a picturesque overview.

If time on the water is appealing try rafting or kayaking along 118 miles of the Rio Grande on the southwest Texas border with Mexico. For hikers, there are 200 miles of trails to explore. If nature photography or plein air art are among your passions, there are 150 miles of back country roads to carry you and your equipment from one breathtaking destination to the next.

The locals and visitors alike are a friendly lot happy to share their knowledge of the Park’s wonders. Do visit the Big Bend Museum at Sul Ross campus of University of Texas in Alpine for a historical snapshot of the region.

Pancho Villa is one of the more colorful characters of the Big Bend region. Most folks are aware of his escapades across the border in the early 1900’s. Did you know, in an effort to finance his military campaigns Pancho Villa contacted Frank Thayer and the Mutual Film Co. to film his troops in the battle of Ojinga? When the fighting did not go well, he convinced them to film a siege at Torreon where he led the troops into battle himself. He did prevail in this bloody encounter, and the film makers were disgusted. Original footage exists in a museum in Mexico City. The 2003 movie of Pancho Villa as himself starring Antonio Banderras was based on the original movie.

I’m always fascinated with how our parks, our national treasures, came into being. The Big Bend area figures prominently in southwest Texas history first as home to the Chisos, Mescaleros, and Comanche Indians, then overrun by the Spaniards looking to tap into the rich silver lodes. More recently in 1933 Texas designated Big Bend Ranch State Park. In 1935 Congress passed legislation allowing acquisition of the park lands, and the Park was opened to visitors on July 1, 1944.

Here’s a fun fact. In 1964 the Apollo astronauts came to Big Bend to study volcanic geology so they could identify what they would see on the moon.
In Mexican cowboy poetry the Big Bend is "where the rainbows wait for the rain."
My personal goal is to get back there and spend a week or so immersing myself in all there is to offer . . .

http://www.nps.gov/bibe/planyourvisit/special.htm

What I Learned About Beauty, Strength, Voice, and Vision from a Centurian MK3 Military Tank

Dear Friends,

     I feel very lucky to be invited to write a traveling story on the "You Can Get There from Here" blog!  I would like to share a little article I was asked to write for the USA Track and Field Association.  It was about my experience in the summer of 2011 in the Venice Biennale, in Venice, Italy.

     In August of 2011, I ran on top of an overturned military tank in an international art exhibit.  Sound strange?  It did to me and to everyone I spoke with when they asked me about my summer plans.  I was a running performance artist in the installation called, “Track and Field” within the United States Exhibit, “Gloria.” This exhibit was created by Jennifer Allora and Guillermo Calzadilla for the 2011 Venice Biennale.  The Biennale has been referred to as “The Olympics of the Art World.” Countries choose one exhibit to represent them in this awe-inspiring collection of art to be seen by art enthusiasts and collectors from around the globe.

      When I saw the original ad from the USA Track and Field Association I saw the words, “Perform,” “Art Exhibit,” “Italy.”  “Wow!” I thought to myself, so, I e-mailed, I called, I prayed, I posted the ad on the fridge and was accepted. I started training for good form, for grace on a tank, for not being afraid of heights, for people watching or in any other way that I thought would help for a running event I never imagined.  I didn’t realize that the running would be second to all else I learned.  I became part of a family of people that included runners from all over the United States, artists, performers, and visitors from all over the world. In the process, I also gained new definitions of beauty, strength, voice, and vision.

     I was in awe of the beauty of all of the people that became part of the experience.  The runners were Olympians, world ranked marathoners, ironman triathletes, sprinters, coaches, filmmakers, artists, educators, and more.  Dave Durante, our Athletic Recruiter, gave us encouragement, information and instructions about our time in Venice.  I was also grateful for other people who were part of the experience, inspiring The Rose City Runners, my family in the United States and Italy, the other performers, the visitors, and the artists.  Alessandro and Matthew, who work for the Guggenheim Museum became my “coaches” as they protected the tank, watched and gave me clues about how much time was left in my 15-minute performance.

     I was in awe of the strength required to perform as a runner or as a gymnast.  While there I lived with other runners and the gymnasts who performed on the other installations and sculptures.  Their concentration, flexibility, and strength were amazing!  When I started performing, I realized there were elements of strength I needed that I had never encountered before.  The treadmill went at a slow speed so I had to run on my toes, with high knees (which resulted in a lot of sore calf-muscles).  The 10-foot drop (at least) to the left of the treadmill required me to get over my fear of heights in a hurry.  The treadmill shook with the vibrations of the tank from side to side.  There was also the sound of the treads, a loud, metal on metal, grinding, unbelievable (sometimes comforting) sound.  When we turned the tank on each morning – people came from everywhere to find the source of the noise and then watched while covering their ears.

     Another factor that made it challenging were people taking pictures and videos around the tank and underneath the treadmill too.  The performance, while it looked simple required a lot.  It required concentration to be: safe, to be graceful, to perform well, to smile subtly to children who waved, to be one with the sound of the tank, to be aware of the 10-foot drop, and the very large, scary metal treads moving behind you. While concentrating, I was also thinking about how I loved that gorgeous tank, how grateful I was for the experience and how I felt like giggling out loud at the same time.

     I was in awe as I was reminded of the power of our voice.  After each session, visitors would clap, give high fives, give a thumbs-up and just wanted to chat.  People from all over the world wanted to talk about the tank, the message, the runner, and world peace too.  The runners were anonymous but people were curious to know what we did outside of running on a piece of art.  I enjoyed hearing people’s questions and interpretations of the art and we laughed together as we shared insights about life too.  Their stories energized me and reminded me of the power of our voice.  We never know how our voice, our art, our story, our running, our laughter, or our words can bring a positive message to other people in the world.

     I am in awe of the power of opportunity, imagination, and a vision for what is possible.  The whole experience stretched what I understand about running, performing, and our part in the international community, art, and gratitude.  I am grateful for the beauty of all the people I met and worked with and the artists Jennifer Allora and Guillermo Calzadilla.  I am grateful for the strength of the performers and the ability to perform on the tank.  The experience affirmed for me the power that our voice, and our conversations with others can have in the world.  Lastly, I am grateful for the opportunity offered by the USA Track and Field Association that helped me to expand my vision of all that is possible.

Most Sincerely,
Kimberly Borin
http://theencouragingworks.blogspot.com

P.S. One day after I was running,  I had the chance to meet a family who was watching the tank performance.  They allowed me to take a picture of their son's shirt - which I thought had a very powerful message!

For More Information about the Venice Biennale:
★ The Indiana Museum of Art page about the Biennale - http://www.imamuseum.org/venice
★ The Venice Biennale Home Page - http://www.labiennale.org/en/Home.html
★ The New York Times, “Combining People and Machines in Venice” -  http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/09/arts/design/allora-and-calzadilla-at-venice-biennale-review.html?_r=1
★ The New York Times Article About the Venice Biennale - http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/15/arts/design/allora-calzadilla-gloria-venice-biennale.html?_r=1
★ The New York Times Artsbeat Blog - http://artsbeat.blogs.nytimes.com/tag/venice-biennale
★ The New York Times Article and Slideshow - http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/06/09/arts/design/Biennale.html

Chilkat Eagle Preserve -- Caring and Foresight

Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.
Helen Keller

It was a cold and dreary day, not at all appealing for a raft ride on the Chilkat River, and frankly, if we had not already signed up we might have opted for something warmer and cozier. Alas, the tour organizer told us we were fortunate that Tom Lang was guiding. We soon learned she knew what she was talking about. I absolutely encourage you to check out Tom’s blog and website. http://boudelang.com/2011/05/30/20-years-guiding-in-the-chilkat-bald-eagle-preserve-1991-2011/#comment-16

From the moment we got on the bus headed for the raft landing, Tom entertained and enriched us with his wit and his love for Haines, Alaska, and the eagle preserve. When he is not guiding of the Chilkat Tom lives in Bali and writes books, which he describes as little books with big stories.

Tom Lang,River Guide/Author

In 1982 the state of Alaska established the 48,000 acre preserve to protect the largest concentration of bald eagles in the world and their habitat. The preserve is home for 200 to 400 eagles, and over 80 nests have been observed. Wow!

The river supports spawning for 5 species of salmon. The salmon carcasses provide quantities of food for the eagles. Eagles feed mainly on fish, but when fish are in short supply water fowl, small mammals and carrion supplement their diet.

A few eagle facts. Eagles mate for life. The bald eagle is found only in North America. Adult eagles typically weigh between 9 and 12 pounds and boast a 7-foot wingspan. Young eagles are brown and white. The distinctive white head and tail develop between the age of 4 and 6. Eagles can fly up to 30 mph and dive at 100 mph. They can spot fish at distances of up to one mile.

When we reached the launching area, we traded our shoes for rubber boots. We were fitted with life vests and received some safety guidelines. We found seats in a rubber raft, and with Tom guiding we headed down the braided river. We were in the lead raft, which meant our guide would be alert to changing conditions on the river so that he could share with the other guides. We had heard previously about “braided”, but this was an opportunity to experience first-hand the changing channels with the responsibility for navigation with our guide. Channels can change from morning till afternoon as had occurred on our day on the river when a tree went down across a channel. The guide must be extremely knowledgeable and prepared. I wish I had a little You tube movie to show how we managed this obstacle. Tom jumped out of the boat and stopped the forward motion before we crashed into the downed tree. He directed that we scrunch down in the boat, and he held us on course to pass under the tree branches. By the way, the river water which is glacially fed is approximately 38 degrees. Each raft navigated the obstacle a little differently.

We saw eagles – in flight, hunting, on nests, perched on trees. Impressive. Elegant. The eagle nests, built to last year after year, are safely protected in the preserve.

Along the banks of the river we got a glimpse of a Clikit native American community. They were in the process of reproducing a longhouse and preserving their culture.

When we tied up the boats, we found our bus driver was waiting with our shoes, sandwiches and hot chocolate.

We were looking for wildlife and a natural setting, and this trip did not disappoint. Absolutely worth a visit to Haines, Alaska!

Denali -- Persistence Pays

“If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn’t lead anywhere.”
Frank A. Clark

The highest peak in North America at 20,320 feet, and it was our good fortune to actually see Denali, which is 17% glacier. The “great one” is typically visible only 30% of the time. Wow! It could be the ultimate wilderness experience. Definitely larger than life.

Wildlife abounds. The park is so huge, there is no need for the animals to come in contact with humans, but we did get a glimpse of some of the “natives.”

The Nenanna River, which flows north eventually reaching the Bering Sea, courses through the park. This is a braided river characterized by glacial silt, which forms ever-changing channels.

So how did anyone actually find this pristine wilderness? Well, Harry Karstens first came to the Klondike territory in 1897 in search of gold. He migrated down the Yukon River into Alaska in his quest. He gained attention as a pioneer in Alaska helping to haul supplies for the U.S. Army and building a telegraph line to link various isolated Alaskan outposts.

In 1906 Karstens guided a hunting/fishing trip along the Toklat River for naturalist Charles Sheldon. Sheldon was captivated by the beauty of the wilderness. He returned for longer periods. Establishing a camp became a goal. The road building process just to access the camp was arduous, and that was just the beginning. Getting fresh drinking water presented its own dilemma. They built a cabin for protection from the elements, and Savage Camp, the first hub in this untamed land, was born.

Sheldon recognized the importance of preserving this sanctuary. He persisted and lobbied Congress for 10 years to safeguard this natural masterpiece. In 1917 Sheldon’s vision finally became a reality, and Harry Karstens was named the first superintendent of the park serving from 1928 to 1939.

In 1928, President Theodore Roosevelt confirmed that the US should preserve this “great wonder of nature.”

What's in a name? Is it Mt. McKinley or Denali, “the high one” in Athabascan? Either way, you’re right. In 1895 a reporter called the mountain Mt. McKinley honoring William McKinley, who by the way, never set foot in Alaska. First nation people thought Denali a more appropriate name, and in 1899 it was called Denali. No matter what you choose to call it, there is nothing like it, and it is an amazing sight.

While in Denali, we were fortunate to chat with Carol Reid, a native Athabascan, who gave us an overview of the life of this First Nation people. She explained there are five tribes comprising the Indian population. In addition to her commitment to preserve Athabascan history and culture, Carol offered some interesting facts.

Did you know caribou antlers grow 1”/day until maturity at 40 lbs.? Natural predators of the caribou are grizzlies and wolves.

How about frogs that freeze in the ground in winter, reviving and thriving come the spring thaw?

I was a little surprised that Denali does not boast an extensive trail system. The wilderness is the real deal. Good news is that there are trails from the Visitor’s Center with great footing, views and even ice in June. What a nice opportunity to imagine the early explorers’ treks and experience the grandeur.

The Quest for Gold -- Ticket to a Better Life

“Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you imagine.” Thoreau

Although Alaska was mostly ignored by the US after its acquisition in 1867, the draw of gold brought more than 100,000 would be prospectors to the last frontier in search of a better life at the turn of the century. Many perished on the journey, and for many others gold was elusive. Consequently, the expression used today “didn’t pan out.” Robert Henderson reached Dawson City and steadfastly prospected for gold, in the end never staking a claim. However, on Henderson’s advice to prospect in Rabbit Creek, George Carmack with his hunting/fishing party, including his Indian wife Tagish Kate and her brother Skookum Jim, was the first white man to discover gold in the Klondike. He did stake his claim, and in the first season, more than $100,000 in gold was taken from this claim and the creek renamed Bonanza Creek. Controversy remains today as to who should be credited with the discovery. To learn more read “Klondike Fever” by Pierre Berton.

Do try your hand at panning for gold and learning the history of mining at the El Dorado Gold mine. You are guaranteed to find gold! http://eldoradogoldmine.com/

The stampeders were not necessarily as fortunate as we were. For us, the staff provided us bags of silt, pans and kept the water in the sluice boxes. It was fun, but our muscles were certainly aware of the stress of the panning process. I suspect the fun soon went out of the quest for the prospectors who shoveled and panned continually all day long with no guarantee of the results.

In gold rush days Skagway became a supply depot for prospectors. It was also known as a “hell on earth” with pitfalls for unwary miners.

Jefferson Randolph a/k/a “Soapy” Smith gained notoriety in Skagway as a con man/gangster. He moved to Skagway in 1898 and set up a telegraph office where the telegraphs did not leave the building.

His nickname evolved from his first con, the prize soap racket. Soapy would gather a crowd and using his well honed sleight of hand he wrapped ordinary bars of soap in $$$ bills, $1 to $100, which he then overwrapped with plain brown paper. He then sold the soap to the crowd for $1/bar. Of course, each and every bar was not a winner. However, a shill in the crowd would buy a bar, open it and wave money around, which further enticed the crowd to buy. Finally, he would tell the crowd no one had yet gotten the $100 bar, and he would auction the remaining soap to the highest bidder.

Soapy formed a well disciplined gang of shills and thieves. He was known as the “king of the frontier con men.”

He met his demise in a shoot-out in Juneau in 1898 after his gang robbed a Klondike miner in a game of three-card monte.

I was transported back in time as we rode the White Pass and Yukon narrow gauge railroad from Fraser to Skagway. http://www.wpyr.com/

The hardships the early stampeders endured and their amazing ingenuity navigating the Yukon River and traversing Dead Horse Gulch, which witnessed the demise of 3,000 horses, to improve their fortunes boggled my mind. Each person setting out from the Yukon Territory where the treacherous White Pass and Chilkoot trails met were required by the Canadian government to have 1 ton of supplies to continue the journey to gold country to follow their dream. Just moving the supplies was overwhelming. Think about it, how much could one person carry at a time – 50 lbs./80lbs.? How many miles packing supplies before even starting to prospect for gold – sometimes 1,000 miles. http://www.arcticwebsite.com/goldrushsupplies1898.html

In the end no gold was found in Skagway, the closest claim being 550 miles north in Dawson City. I was saddened to think of all those naïve folks and their animals that died in the quest.

Ketchikan -- Rugged Individualists Welcome

"The best things in life aren't things."  Art Buchwald

It was a bucket list trip, and Alaska met all of our expectations – grandscale and
rugged, not pretentious.  

Russia sold Alaska because it needed money.  In 1867 the United States agreed to purchase Alaska for $7,200,000.   At the time the transaction was called “Seward’s Folly” referring to Secretary of State William Seward.  There were other terms reflecting the skepticism of Congress for this purchase including “Seward’s Ice Box”, “Walrussia” and “Johnson’s Polar Bear Garden.”

What was the attraction then and now?  Gold, transportation, military, tourism. The purchase in 1867 stopped Russian trade and further exploration in Alaska.  Then the US pretty much ignored the “Land of the Midnight Sun”.  Late in the 19th century  attention focused on Alaska as the gold rush captured the hearts and imaginations of Americans seeking a better life.  At the turn of the century the Alaska Railroad drove the economy.  During WWII Alaska was established as a strategic part of America’s defenses.  Today the “Great Land” is a strong tourist attraction drawing people to its vast beauty and unspoiled nature.

Ketchikan is the key city of Revillagigedo Island, which is the size of Connecticut,  part of the Alexander Archipelago, and the 12th largest island in the US located in the southeastern region of Alaska.

So, you’re one of the folks looking to explore America’s last frontier.  Who were the people who were so closely linked to its history and destiny?

William Seward was a Republican career politician who served as Secretary of State under Lincoln and Andrew Johnson.  Carl Schurz was quoted as saying Seward was “one of those spirits who sometimes will go ahead of public opinion instead of tamely following its footprints.”  Seward considered the purchase of Alaska to be his greatest achievement. http://www.sitnews.net/JuneAllen/AlaskaPurchase/032103_Sewards_Day.html

 To celebrate the US acquisition of Alaska, first Nation people of Ketchikan invited Secretary of State Seward to a potlatch.  A potlatch was held when a huge celebration was in order.  It was a great honor to be selected to host a potlatch which went on for days.  However, as the host family, you were expected to provide all the food, drink and accommodations for all the guests.   Guests would give careful thought as to a suitable gift for the hosting family.  Apparently, the Secretary of State did not thoroughly research the First Nation potlatch customs, and he attended the wonderful celebration hosted by the Tinglits empty handed, which was a major affront.

Today in the Saxman Village of Ketchikan you can view the totem of shame carved as a result of William Seward’s faux pas.  Totems are carved from red cedar.  This totem has no adornment at all except a small likeness of Seward at the top with his nose and ears painted red representing stinginess.  

Ketchikan's economy is based upon tourism and fishing.

Ketchikan is named after Ketchikan Creek, which flows through the town, which is a great walking town.   Aside from the typical tourist haunts found in historic buildings in Ketchikan, there is a house at #24 Creek Street formerly owned and operated by a rather well-to-do property owner and lady of negotiable affections named Dolly Arthur.  Dolly is quoted “I realized I could make a lot more money from the attentions of men than I could waiting tables.”  Dolly operated her house as a sole proprietor from 1919 to 1950’s when government closed up houses of prostitution.  Dolly was 72 at the time. http://www.margaretdeefholts.com/dollyarthur.html

The seed of individualism was set in the gold rush days and has been consistently nurtured to date.  Although tourism has grown exponentially, a visit to Alaska is truly a step into America's last frontier.  You may come away inspired to reach for the depths of your soul.