Chilkat Eagle Preserve -- Caring and Foresight

Life is either a daring adventure or nothing.
Helen Keller

It was a cold and dreary day, not at all appealing for a raft ride on the Chilkat River, and frankly, if we had not already signed up we might have opted for something warmer and cozier. Alas, the tour organizer told us we were fortunate that Tom Lang was guiding. We soon learned she knew what she was talking about. I absolutely encourage you to check out Tom’s blog and website. http://boudelang.com/2011/05/30/20-years-guiding-in-the-chilkat-bald-eagle-preserve-1991-2011/#comment-16

From the moment we got on the bus headed for the raft landing, Tom entertained and enriched us with his wit and his love for Haines, Alaska, and the eagle preserve. When he is not guiding of the Chilkat Tom lives in Bali and writes books, which he describes as little books with big stories.

Tom Lang,River Guide/Author

In 1982 the state of Alaska established the 48,000 acre preserve to protect the largest concentration of bald eagles in the world and their habitat. The preserve is home for 200 to 400 eagles, and over 80 nests have been observed. Wow!

The river supports spawning for 5 species of salmon. The salmon carcasses provide quantities of food for the eagles. Eagles feed mainly on fish, but when fish are in short supply water fowl, small mammals and carrion supplement their diet.

A few eagle facts. Eagles mate for life. The bald eagle is found only in North America. Adult eagles typically weigh between 9 and 12 pounds and boast a 7-foot wingspan. Young eagles are brown and white. The distinctive white head and tail develop between the age of 4 and 6. Eagles can fly up to 30 mph and dive at 100 mph. They can spot fish at distances of up to one mile.

When we reached the launching area, we traded our shoes for rubber boots. We were fitted with life vests and received some safety guidelines. We found seats in a rubber raft, and with Tom guiding we headed down the braided river. We were in the lead raft, which meant our guide would be alert to changing conditions on the river so that he could share with the other guides. We had heard previously about “braided”, but this was an opportunity to experience first-hand the changing channels with the responsibility for navigation with our guide. Channels can change from morning till afternoon as had occurred on our day on the river when a tree went down across a channel. The guide must be extremely knowledgeable and prepared. I wish I had a little You tube movie to show how we managed this obstacle. Tom jumped out of the boat and stopped the forward motion before we crashed into the downed tree. He directed that we scrunch down in the boat, and he held us on course to pass under the tree branches. By the way, the river water which is glacially fed is approximately 38 degrees. Each raft navigated the obstacle a little differently.

We saw eagles – in flight, hunting, on nests, perched on trees. Impressive. Elegant. The eagle nests, built to last year after year, are safely protected in the preserve.

Along the banks of the river we got a glimpse of a Clikit native American community. They were in the process of reproducing a longhouse and preserving their culture.

When we tied up the boats, we found our bus driver was waiting with our shoes, sandwiches and hot chocolate.

We were looking for wildlife and a natural setting, and this trip did not disappoint. Absolutely worth a visit to Haines, Alaska!

Denali -- Persistence Pays

“If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn’t lead anywhere.”
Frank A. Clark

The highest peak in North America at 20,320 feet, and it was our good fortune to actually see Denali, which is 17% glacier. The “great one” is typically visible only 30% of the time. Wow! It could be the ultimate wilderness experience. Definitely larger than life.

Wildlife abounds. The park is so huge, there is no need for the animals to come in contact with humans, but we did get a glimpse of some of the “natives.”

The Nenanna River, which flows north eventually reaching the Bering Sea, courses through the park. This is a braided river characterized by glacial silt, which forms ever-changing channels.

So how did anyone actually find this pristine wilderness? Well, Harry Karstens first came to the Klondike territory in 1897 in search of gold. He migrated down the Yukon River into Alaska in his quest. He gained attention as a pioneer in Alaska helping to haul supplies for the U.S. Army and building a telegraph line to link various isolated Alaskan outposts.

In 1906 Karstens guided a hunting/fishing trip along the Toklat River for naturalist Charles Sheldon. Sheldon was captivated by the beauty of the wilderness. He returned for longer periods. Establishing a camp became a goal. The road building process just to access the camp was arduous, and that was just the beginning. Getting fresh drinking water presented its own dilemma. They built a cabin for protection from the elements, and Savage Camp, the first hub in this untamed land, was born.

Sheldon recognized the importance of preserving this sanctuary. He persisted and lobbied Congress for 10 years to safeguard this natural masterpiece. In 1917 Sheldon’s vision finally became a reality, and Harry Karstens was named the first superintendent of the park serving from 1928 to 1939.

In 1928, President Theodore Roosevelt confirmed that the US should preserve this “great wonder of nature.”

What's in a name? Is it Mt. McKinley or Denali, “the high one” in Athabascan? Either way, you’re right. In 1895 a reporter called the mountain Mt. McKinley honoring William McKinley, who by the way, never set foot in Alaska. First nation people thought Denali a more appropriate name, and in 1899 it was called Denali. No matter what you choose to call it, there is nothing like it, and it is an amazing sight.

While in Denali, we were fortunate to chat with Carol Reid, a native Athabascan, who gave us an overview of the life of this First Nation people. She explained there are five tribes comprising the Indian population. In addition to her commitment to preserve Athabascan history and culture, Carol offered some interesting facts.

Did you know caribou antlers grow 1”/day until maturity at 40 lbs.? Natural predators of the caribou are grizzlies and wolves.

How about frogs that freeze in the ground in winter, reviving and thriving come the spring thaw?

I was a little surprised that Denali does not boast an extensive trail system. The wilderness is the real deal. Good news is that there are trails from the Visitor’s Center with great footing, views and even ice in June. What a nice opportunity to imagine the early explorers’ treks and experience the grandeur.

The Quest for Gold -- Ticket to a Better Life

“Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you imagine.” Thoreau

Although Alaska was mostly ignored by the US after its acquisition in 1867, the draw of gold brought more than 100,000 would be prospectors to the last frontier in search of a better life at the turn of the century. Many perished on the journey, and for many others gold was elusive. Consequently, the expression used today “didn’t pan out.” Robert Henderson reached Dawson City and steadfastly prospected for gold, in the end never staking a claim. However, on Henderson’s advice to prospect in Rabbit Creek, George Carmack with his hunting/fishing party, including his Indian wife Tagish Kate and her brother Skookum Jim, was the first white man to discover gold in the Klondike. He did stake his claim, and in the first season, more than $100,000 in gold was taken from this claim and the creek renamed Bonanza Creek. Controversy remains today as to who should be credited with the discovery. To learn more read “Klondike Fever” by Pierre Berton.

Do try your hand at panning for gold and learning the history of mining at the El Dorado Gold mine. You are guaranteed to find gold! http://eldoradogoldmine.com/

The stampeders were not necessarily as fortunate as we were. For us, the staff provided us bags of silt, pans and kept the water in the sluice boxes. It was fun, but our muscles were certainly aware of the stress of the panning process. I suspect the fun soon went out of the quest for the prospectors who shoveled and panned continually all day long with no guarantee of the results.

In gold rush days Skagway became a supply depot for prospectors. It was also known as a “hell on earth” with pitfalls for unwary miners.

Jefferson Randolph a/k/a “Soapy” Smith gained notoriety in Skagway as a con man/gangster. He moved to Skagway in 1898 and set up a telegraph office where the telegraphs did not leave the building.

His nickname evolved from his first con, the prize soap racket. Soapy would gather a crowd and using his well honed sleight of hand he wrapped ordinary bars of soap in $$$ bills, $1 to $100, which he then overwrapped with plain brown paper. He then sold the soap to the crowd for $1/bar. Of course, each and every bar was not a winner. However, a shill in the crowd would buy a bar, open it and wave money around, which further enticed the crowd to buy. Finally, he would tell the crowd no one had yet gotten the $100 bar, and he would auction the remaining soap to the highest bidder.

Soapy formed a well disciplined gang of shills and thieves. He was known as the “king of the frontier con men.”

He met his demise in a shoot-out in Juneau in 1898 after his gang robbed a Klondike miner in a game of three-card monte.

I was transported back in time as we rode the White Pass and Yukon narrow gauge railroad from Fraser to Skagway. http://www.wpyr.com/

The hardships the early stampeders endured and their amazing ingenuity navigating the Yukon River and traversing Dead Horse Gulch, which witnessed the demise of 3,000 horses, to improve their fortunes boggled my mind. Each person setting out from the Yukon Territory where the treacherous White Pass and Chilkoot trails met were required by the Canadian government to have 1 ton of supplies to continue the journey to gold country to follow their dream. Just moving the supplies was overwhelming. Think about it, how much could one person carry at a time – 50 lbs./80lbs.? How many miles packing supplies before even starting to prospect for gold – sometimes 1,000 miles. http://www.arcticwebsite.com/goldrushsupplies1898.html

In the end no gold was found in Skagway, the closest claim being 550 miles north in Dawson City. I was saddened to think of all those naïve folks and their animals that died in the quest.

Ketchikan -- Rugged Individualists Welcome

"The best things in life aren't things."  Art Buchwald

It was a bucket list trip, and Alaska met all of our expectations – grandscale and
rugged, not pretentious.  

Russia sold Alaska because it needed money.  In 1867 the United States agreed to purchase Alaska for $7,200,000.   At the time the transaction was called “Seward’s Folly” referring to Secretary of State William Seward.  There were other terms reflecting the skepticism of Congress for this purchase including “Seward’s Ice Box”, “Walrussia” and “Johnson’s Polar Bear Garden.”

What was the attraction then and now?  Gold, transportation, military, tourism. The purchase in 1867 stopped Russian trade and further exploration in Alaska.  Then the US pretty much ignored the “Land of the Midnight Sun”.  Late in the 19th century  attention focused on Alaska as the gold rush captured the hearts and imaginations of Americans seeking a better life.  At the turn of the century the Alaska Railroad drove the economy.  During WWII Alaska was established as a strategic part of America’s defenses.  Today the “Great Land” is a strong tourist attraction drawing people to its vast beauty and unspoiled nature.

Ketchikan is the key city of Revillagigedo Island, which is the size of Connecticut,  part of the Alexander Archipelago, and the 12th largest island in the US located in the southeastern region of Alaska.

So, you’re one of the folks looking to explore America’s last frontier.  Who were the people who were so closely linked to its history and destiny?

William Seward was a Republican career politician who served as Secretary of State under Lincoln and Andrew Johnson.  Carl Schurz was quoted as saying Seward was “one of those spirits who sometimes will go ahead of public opinion instead of tamely following its footprints.”  Seward considered the purchase of Alaska to be his greatest achievement. http://www.sitnews.net/JuneAllen/AlaskaPurchase/032103_Sewards_Day.html

 To celebrate the US acquisition of Alaska, first Nation people of Ketchikan invited Secretary of State Seward to a potlatch.  A potlatch was held when a huge celebration was in order.  It was a great honor to be selected to host a potlatch which went on for days.  However, as the host family, you were expected to provide all the food, drink and accommodations for all the guests.   Guests would give careful thought as to a suitable gift for the hosting family.  Apparently, the Secretary of State did not thoroughly research the First Nation potlatch customs, and he attended the wonderful celebration hosted by the Tinglits empty handed, which was a major affront.

Today in the Saxman Village of Ketchikan you can view the totem of shame carved as a result of William Seward’s faux pas.  Totems are carved from red cedar.  This totem has no adornment at all except a small likeness of Seward at the top with his nose and ears painted red representing stinginess.  

Ketchikan's economy is based upon tourism and fishing.

Ketchikan is named after Ketchikan Creek, which flows through the town, which is a great walking town.   Aside from the typical tourist haunts found in historic buildings in Ketchikan, there is a house at #24 Creek Street formerly owned and operated by a rather well-to-do property owner and lady of negotiable affections named Dolly Arthur.  Dolly is quoted “I realized I could make a lot more money from the attentions of men than I could waiting tables.”  Dolly operated her house as a sole proprietor from 1919 to 1950’s when government closed up houses of prostitution.  Dolly was 72 at the time. http://www.margaretdeefholts.com/dollyarthur.html

The seed of individualism was set in the gold rush days and has been consistently nurtured to date.  Although tourism has grown exponentially, a visit to Alaska is truly a step into America's last frontier.  You may come away inspired to reach for the depths of your soul.